After a line-up of fourteen designers culminated during the first two days of Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) Winter/Festive 2018, Day Three brought the idea of solo shows back into the spotlight with Deepak Perwani’s grand spectacle, Madhaniyan.
Celebrating the numerous feats and accolades of his 24 years in the industry, the night of rightful self-indulgence commenced with a soirée in the lush gardens of Ronak Lakhani’s palatial residence, where the invitees were introduced to Perwani’s showcase.
Exploring the special bond between a father and his daughter, the exhibit was divided into a narrative which looked at the journey of a young girl becoming a woman, then a bride and ultimately, how her father gives her away in marriage. Through all of these phases, Perwani managed to create an aesthetically sound collection of 50 opulent creations.
“Madhaniyan is an amalgamation of a lot of my vintage and 2018 pieces,” the designer said. “I hope that everyone who attended the show resonated with it and enjoyed the showcase.”
And resonate it did.
Keeping with his design aesthetic of more is more, Perwani did what he does best; he brought the glitter to the festive. Farfetched felt the idea of graphic prints and minimalism in his collection, and instead came grand ensembles that played with the imagery of Subcontinental royalty.
Out walked Sarwat Gilani, Adnan Siddiqui, Mehwish Hayat and Danish Hayat as showstoppers, along with a plethora of known models. It all became a spectacle under the huge crystal chandeliers and in that instance, it felt like Perwani had held onto the crowd’s attention.
There was rampant use of intricate embroideries in diamante and pearl sequins, sublime embellishments in the form of exotic birds, peacocks and elephants, and floral ornamentation – but it all worked. It was a signature Perwani has given to the industry for the last two decades and more, and for the first time, it felt like the designer is not willing to let go of a legacy he has so momentously created.
Yes, there was once again the use of rich, royal fabrics and embellishment-over-embellishment that the designer has done in most of his last collections but this time, it was done tastefully.
From the golds, silvers, and mauve lehenga cholis to hand-worked peplum tops in earthy shades, Madhaniyan was a testament to the opulent shaadi obsession Pakistanis share, where the contemporary and traditional fuse together.
In the end, Perwani can be sure of one thing – his collection will sell. It plays with the idea of the ‘pretty’ aesthetic that is so inherently part of the Pakistani bridal trousseau that it refuses to change. In that sense, this was surely a victory Perwani can enjoy!
However, did it bring the best of the cutting-edge craft we know Perwani can do? That’s a whole different story.