London based Pakistani designer Omar Mansoor showcased his 12th collection at London Fashion Week and the designer, who takes pride in his Asian roots, took inspiration from the ancient Persian symbol of the Faravahar, deriving from Zoroastrian traditions and a royal navy blue palette. He’s not Persian or Parsi, just to clarify, but he feels that his Asian roots have allowed him the creative liberty to represent all the communities within the Asian periphery.
Omar Mansoor showcased his 12th collection at London Fashion Week. It took inspiration from the ancient Persian symbol of the Faravahar, deriving from Zoroastrian traditions and a royal navy blue palette.
FASHIONFocus
Omar Mansoor, who showcased at the London Fashion Week this weekend, talks to Instep about the effort that went into making Royae Shahdokht and the fabulous response that it received.
London based Pakistani designer Omar Mansoor showcased his 12th collection at London Fashion Week and the designer, who takes pride in his Asian roots, took inspiration from the ancient Persian symbol of the Faravahar, deriving from Zoroastrian traditions and a royal navy blue palette. He’s not Persian or Parsi, just to clarify, but he feels that his Asian roots have allowed him the creative liberty to represent all the communities within the Asian periphery.
“I felt so humbled that the collection was well received by the attendees and buyers,” Mansoor said after his show. “I plan to make (the designs) available for sale before Christmas as many styles were hot and in-demand for festive season. The collection featured full and short length dresses made up of vintage laces, crepe and chiffons. By combining vintage fabrics alongside modern fabrics, I have tried to create an elegant look for a woman who embodies self-confidence, high spirits and splendour.”
His collection for Spring Summer 17 was titled Royae Shahdokht and as expected, borrowed heavily from Zoroastrian traditions with the blue Faravahar icon being the focal point of the palette and mood.
We asked him to share how it feels to work, own and run a label in London?
“I have always felt part of this diverse and inclusive fashion industry primarily because London is extremely open,” he replied. “There is a place for all sorts of work as long as there is quality being delivered. Londoners have always stood by their choices, whether it is electing a mayor or buying a fashion brand. Your ethnicity doesn’t matter if you deliver according to their tastes and understand their fashion sense.”
It is acknowledged that Omar Mansoor is a well-established brand today but we asked how much he had to struggle before he settled in to the highly competitive and almost aggressive fashion industry.
“Initially I did face criticism, surprisingly not from the locals (Britishers) but from the Asian community settled in the UK,” he recalls. “They were not supportive of the idea of western wear by an Asian designer and they did try to shoot down the idea of launching my own line when I was barely two years old in the industry. But right from the start I was supported by a great team of designers, publishers and customers. The locals here are very open, especially when it comes to fashion and lifestyle. If you are creative and you have something new to offer, then you are here to stay.”
Did he ever feel pressurized into designing ethnic and traditional Pakistani clothing?
“I have always cashed in on my skin colour (in London) because our Pakistani craft and embroidery are world famous,” he confessed. “The detailing and craftsmanship that Pakistan offers is something you don’t even get in India. So in a way initially what was touted to be my weakness (referring to being desi), was what I converted into strength. Pakistani embroidery and intricate work have influenced me and my work and not only that, the Pakistani craftsmanship is so much in demand as well. I am proud of the fact that I am from Pakistan and I have never sported a fake accent to hide my identity. Because this ‘desi cum paki cum foreigner’ can bring such fusion on the table that no other designer can. And that’s my USP.”
Lastly, sensing how established Omar is in the UK – having shown for 12 consecutive seasons at London Fashion Week, we asked whether he ever thought about launching his brand in Pakistan.
“I have been approached by few textile brands in Pakistan where I have the flexibility to be the design director and they run the day to day operations,” he said. “And a set-up like this suits me the most because it’s easier to manage remotely. I am looking to expand in Pakistan but virtually at the moment.”
Designers like Omar Mansoor, born in Pakistan to a textile family and educated in the UK at the London School of Fashion are the sort of names that inspire a young and struggling generation. He is someone who has made it big because of his commitment and consistency and of course, the fact that he’s worked harder on building his label than on building camps and artificial egos. He sets a great example and we wish him the best of luck!
—Sadiq Saleem is a Dubai based entertainment journalist. He is also an SH correspondent and can be contacted on his page fb/sidsaidso.
