Being a literature grad, I have always been interested in different civilisations which conquered, ruled and dissolved at the end of their reign. But apart from that, what made me more interested in Istanbul’s history are the Turkish soap series (Ishq-e-Memnu & Mera Sultan) and their hot characters (judge me), that piqued my interest to know about one of the most beautiful and culturally rich cities in the world.
Before planning my trip to Istanbul, I was reading about its history and one of the most intriguing parts was the geographical location this land enjoys right from the time it appeared on the world map. Greeks, Romans and the infamous Ottomans ruled the city and used the Bosporus Strait (or Bosphorus) – that forms part of the continental boundary between Europe and Asia – for commercial and military purposes. Bosphorus is the world’s narrowest strait used for international navigation, connecting the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara, and, by extension via the Dardanelles, the Aegean and Mediterranean seas.
Since we went to Istanbul during holiday season, the tickets and overall package was quite expensive hence, we took a leisure trip of 7 days. For those who want to know how to apply for the Turkish visa, it took me a week to prepare for the nitty-gritty of the visa procedure and after 12 days I finally got the visa in my hand. I had a precise (read: ambitious) bucket list of things to do and see in Istanbul during our stay. It was a short trip so I carried a little stuff but a million escapades in my mind...
We stayed at Kalyon Hotel near Sultanahmet which is the heart of Old Istanbul and is a stop for the major tourist attractions. There you will find the magnificent Topkap Saray (Topkapi Palace), Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia), the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii), the Byzantine Hippodrome, Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarn c ), Binbirdirek Cistern, the Istanbul Archeological Museums, Great Palace Mosaic Museum, among others.
For me, it was the best place to roam around for the next 7 days of my life. There I saw tourists from all over the world mesmerised by the cultural value and history of Istanbul while enjoying some amazing local food. However, the best advice about eating in Sultanahmet is: DON’T. Restaurants and kebab places in Sultanahmet are highly expensive. Do not think that it is only a few Turkish Liras. You can always save for other activities for a fulfilling city tour. For budget meals, it is advisable to avoid the restaurants along the tram line in Sultanahmet. One awkward thing about these restaurants is that the personnel will convince you to try their food first, but don’t be fooled.
The best restaurants aren’t always the expensive ones, but those small Lokantas where even the Turkish people go for having dinner are amazing. But, we tried Joy Restaurant & Cafe near our hotel. The food was good specially the fish and pasta. Our taste buds were quite satisfied after trying a number of Shawarmas (as Istanbul street food is pretty famous for their delectable Shawarmas) which are not too good always (except the ones we had at Eminönü before taking a ferry tour for Bosphorus). One more thing to observe is that almost all restaurants have the same menu to offer. They either had Shawarmas, fish or Turkish Kebabs (again a famous go-to meal in Turkey).
Snack attack: Although, I don’t have a sweet tooth (Turks have it though), I tried Baklava and Kunafa, thanks to my sister-in-law. Whenever we went for a walk around Sultanahmet, we used to binge eat these quick food items. Mostly, the taste of Turkish snacks and cuisines is bland. Nevertheless, they are tasty just like some corn on the cob, crunchy Kestane (sugared chestnuts with shells still on), sesame-encrusted Simit (which is both – a breakfast staple and a popular street food) and of course, Dondurma – a Turkish mastic ice cream (yes, I did try the not-to-be-missed sleight-of-hand performance by those Dondurma sellers if you’re wondering – hear my eyes rolling).
Grand Bazaar: Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar (or Kapali Carsi in the 17th century) is on top of most tourists’ itineraries, and for good reason. This enormous site is the largest covered market in the world. Since its size and the variety of goods available make it easy to lose one’s bearings. One of the largest and oldest covered bazaars in the world, the Grand Bazaar has over 60 streets and alleys, 500 stalls and 4000 shops (prepare to get lost and embrace this as a part of the authentic experience). Trying to see the entire Grand Bazaar in one afternoon is an unrealistic task. Interestingly, there are various other amenities for the merchants who work there: restaurants, a hammam, and a mosque, as well as at least 10 smaller mescits (mosques in Turkish), or prayer rooms.
Today, this city-within-a-city contains a police station, a health dispensary, a post office, branches of most major banks, and a tourist information centre. If you ask the locals or people who have visited it, the must-haves might include colours jewels, antiques, carpet and kilims, textiles, lanterns, Turkish delight (yes I did buy a box for my family), souvenirs and some made-to-order stuff too.
If you are looking for some fancy shopping malls with international labels, there is Historia Mall which is located in the Fatih district and within easy reach of Sultanahmet.
Markets on the eastern side: With the huge concentration of (historical) sightseeing spots on the European side of Istanbul, the Asian shore is playing second fiddle to its counterpart. If one already has a ‘been there, done that’ feeling, then the Asian part offers a view of Istanbul and its inhabitants not found in Sultanahmet or Taksim. Since we took a trip to the Bosphorus Strait and went on the Asian shore, we touched base in order to roam around the streets and local markets there.
Taksim Square: Taksim Square is the most known modern city centre of Istanbul. Many hotels and restaurants are in or near the Square and on Istiklal Street, and there is a local bus terminal for public transportation and the main subway station. Istiklal Pedestrian Street has many bars, night clubs and movie theatres therefore it’s always busy with young people almost 24/7. The Square is also the meeting place to celebrate New Year’s Eve, parades, public concerts and other shows.
The most important monument in Taksim Square is the Independence Monument (Istiklal Aniti in Turkish), standing at the beginning of Istiklal Street. This is also the turnaround point for the old tram which is the only vehicle permitted on Istiklal Street beside official (police and government) cars. We had one of the most adventurous nights at Taksim where we spent a good time while cheering the street musicians and eating the authentic Baklava from Istiklal.
The Princes’ Islands: The Princes’ Islands (Kizil Adalar) are a chain of nine rather small islands in the Sea of Marmara. They evolved from a place of exile during the Byzantine era, to a popular destination for tourists and Istanbulites alike to escape the hectic city life for a day. Of those nine islands, only four of them are open to the public: the biggest and most popular Buyukada, Heybeliada, Burgazada and Kinaliada. We visited Buyukada and Heybeliada - the second largest of them all and is popular for its horse carriage rides.
If you plan to visit the islands, make sure you get on the very first sea bus (fast ferry) to the islands on any given day and check upon arrival when the last ferry (fast or conventional) departs back to Istanbul! Although some islands have nice hotels, you don’t want to miss the last ferry. Then, spend as much time as you want on (one of) the Princes’ Islands, and return to Istanbul with whichever ferry you prefer.
Hodjapasha: We decided to go and watch a ceremony of the whirling dervishes at the Hodjapasha Cultural Centre. There are some places where you go and you feel you will be happy there. Hodjapasha is one of them, and here’s why. It is an old building with a modern twist. Purple neon lights invite tourists inside. Once you enter, you will be faced with history and modernity. It is always better to be there earlier because you can enjoy an exhibition that will provide you with some useful information before the show. I would strongly advise taking this time to read about Rumi and his philosophy.
Finding the dance theatre is very easy. You can take a tram or bus to reach there. For tickets, you can book it online (in TL30 to TL40) or directly buy them from Hodjapasha.
Florya Sahil: Since I was accompanied by several beach bums, a day at beach on the last day was mandatory. This also gave us an opportunity to test the Istanbulian waters. The experience was not too good though, as it gave us some Karachi beach feels because of the trash lying all around. A few friends suggested to visit Oludeniz or Antalya to experience an ultimate beach bliss but sadly we couldn’t.
Istanbul is a dream destination. The architecture, the food, everything in Istanbul tells a story. It’s busy, fast-paced and congested, but when you need a break from its fervid life, there is always a nice garden, a small tea house or a mosque where you can seat, breath and relax. As much as you discover the city, you will fall more in love with it.